Indian Side's Crowd

Crossing the border from Pakistan to India, one must navigate from Wagah to Altai respectively. These smaller cities serve as buffer between the pre-partition twin cities of Lahore and Amritsar.

In fact, at the border I departed an auto rickshaw, walked across the border through lax immigration, and seated myself on the Indian side to find a beer and await the nightly closing ceremony. This border has been called the “Berlin Wall of Asia” and has served as a “barometer of the India-Pakistan relations over the years” (Wikipedia).

With the terrorist attack in Mumbai only two days old, I thought it best I get across the border in case she closes up in the even of armed conflict.

Each side populates their security officers (Pakistani Rangers and India’s Border Security Force) with the tallest men with the most honorable mustaches. A lowering of the flags draws crowds of peoples with school buses arriving with to drop kids on field trip off. Pakistan has constructed a half-bowl arena seating while India has simply lied the street with bleachers. The result is more people on the Pakistan side are closer to the action, making them the louder side. More than once in Pakistan I was told, in the humble opinion of the speaker, that Pakistan possess the better side in the matter and I agree based on my one viewing. Large flags are waved on the Pakistan side to entice the crowd to a higher state of fervor.

[/caption]Pictures forthcoming

Both sides give loud cheers. “Pakistan!! Super-Power!!” and “Hindustan!!” are issued forth as the tall guards, most well over six and a half feet, march forward with gusto and swing their long legs as high as possible. Glowering at one another through a gate, the flags are lowered at the same time.

The closing ceremony proved to be an entertaining insight on the Pak-Indo relationship and is a positive step towards mutually understanding, even if it comes off feeling like one big pissing contest between the two nuclear powers.

I’m on to Amritsar where the hits keep on coming.

I buzzed right to the Regale Internet Inn after the 5 hour train ride. This was the guest house on everyone’s lips to stay in and it had a nice atmosphere of travelers. They also organize a trip on Thursday’s to a Sufi drumming circle.

The museum was top notch, the best I’ve seen since Urumqi, China. They featured several main rooms of art collections such as Hindu art, Muslim art, weapons room dating back several hundreds of years, and the most interesting to me, the Gandhara art.

The Gandhara style arose from the influence of western invaders, both military and commercial. Alexander the Great invaded and left his touch and later branches from the main Silk Routes into India brought traders from Europe. What emerged was a combining of Greek artistic values with those of the local Buddhist culture. Statues and depictions became more lifelike, inheriting the Greek values of proportion and attention to details. The crowning piece is the famous Fasting Buddha, which you can read more about here.

The Sufi drumming circle was a couple of intense hours of drumming. The Sufi are an interesting mystical flavor of Islam who define themselves as “a science whose objective is the reparation of the heart and turning it away from all else but God.” (Wikipedia) Two drummers and a variety of supporting characters all crammed into a tiny space. The most notable aspect was the extreme smoking of charas (hasish). Musicians and revelers would work themselves up into at times trances and shake sessions, while most joined in singing songs.

The drummers themselves were amazing. With a drum hanging from a strap around the neck, large Pakistanis took up their curved canes and pounded the skins. One spun around in a circle fastly as the drum left his body with centrifugal forces, all the time maintaining a rattling drum roll.

Supporting characters weaved their way through the crowds, or stood in the front by the drummers. Small children shook and danced in the front, while one older gentleman played a whistle and danced about with a sword. In the background others blowing shells could herald caravans of brightly dressed men. Some looked like stereotypical gypsy traders moving through to pay their respect, another religiously serious in bright orange robes, and still others where just rich men making their way to the VIP sections with a trail behind them handing out fruits and snacks.

One the way out I managed to thwart a pickpocket as his hand crept into my pocket. He quickly retreated and I caught on to my wallet. With such a huge crowd all moving to small exits it would be easy to fall prey to this. I pushed him away and pushed through the crowd. Lucky for me.

Fasting Buddha

From the 6th century BC to the 11th century AD the Kingdom of Gandhara prospered in modern day eastern Afghanistan, northern Pakistan and Kashmir. Before falling to Muslims the area was ruled by Buddhist kings.

From the 1st Century to the 6th, an interesting style of Greco-Buddhist art arose due to the influence of Alexander the Great’s invading armies. The Bactrian Greeks brought their classical Hellenistic style with attention to realistic depictions of the human body.

The synthesis of Buddhist religious symbols and life-like Greek artistic ideals resulted in a sculptural sophistication unknown to prior depictions of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas. Mediterranean curly hair and mustaches began to adorn statues and the figure is in proportion; less cartoon-like and more Hellenistic.

The cities of modern day Taxila (I had visited) and Peshawar (currently seeing violence) were important centers of commerce and learning.

The historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, spent 6 years in self renunciation in an effort to gain insight on the human condition and this image depicts just that. In a moment of epiphany, Buddha later embraced the “Middle Path” between the two extremes.

The attention to detail in Gandhara art is generally not found in Indian art but would continue in north India and Tibet. The neck and sunken eyes are especially rendered with such extreme realism that the viewer shares the suffering.

This is the crowning piece in the excellent Lahore Museum in Lahore, Pakistan.

Fasting Buddha @ Lahore Museum

Sources:

Life of the Buddha: The Emaciated Buddha

Islamabad, on the other hand, is one of the best planned cities. It has origins in the 60′s to replace Karachi as the capital of Pakistan. Roads form a grid system that provides easy and fast transport around the city. The Diplomatic Enclave houses all the embassies under tight security, as much of the city operates.

Lots of police checkpoints but its generally not a problem so zip around quickly on Islamabad’s highway arteries.

My stay here was firstly to acquire an Indian visa, a week process during which I could possibly leave. I parted with Eddy heading south to wait for a few days and try to find a couchsurfing host.

To my rescue came Badar and his amazing friends and family. In the ensuing 10 days I enjoyed perhaps the best hospitality anyone has shown me outside of my own family. Badar is the CEO and founder of a successful British Immigration Consultancy with 6 locations all over Pakistan.

I happened to arrive at a good time as he was traveling for his home village several hours away in Talhatta. He took me along for the ride and he stopped for my benefit in Taxila so I could see the museum there.

Taxila is the present day archaeological site of an ancient Buddhist center of learning in the Gandhāran empire. Dig sites and broken down stupas spot the area and are probably the main attraction since the museum is a bit lackluster. Their collection was small but the pieces were choice, with nice sculptures of Bodhisattva in a near classical Greet style. Th figures are life like and contain more attention to details like mustaches. The museum in Lahore would later have the best collection.

Talhatta was a welcome respite from the busy city life. Badar’s forefathers actually founded the village and nearly everyone is related somehow, including many, many uncles and cousins who I was always meeting. It proved to be a welcoming couple of days.

Badar & I

Badar and his longtime friend Yassin organized a barbecue one evening in their newly planted orange grove. The bbq chicken and other goodies were delicious. Relaxing time in the mountains looking at the river and taking night walks.

Upon return I stayed a few days with the family of some coworkers. I surfed with Osama and his brother Vicky. At one point we were watching a movie about a plot to kill the US President and Osama says to me, “Did you ever imagine in your life you’d be sitting in Pakistan with Osama watching this?” I had to laugh.

Vicky was a great friend to me and introduced me to many of his own friends. I felt very much at home in their presence with an atmosphere just like with my own friends in the States. Vicky ushered me many places, including a midnight visit to the bombed out Marriott Hotel, Parliament Building, local hangout at Jinah Super, and a scenic drive to the top of a mountain through some jungle. I got to see a lot of locations I otherwise would have missed.

It was hard to pull myself from their good company. This experience was true evidence to how couchsurfing.com can change the face of travel. It was great to be able to have conversations on political and religious themes and get their opinions. I expanded my knowledge of Islam and was also fortunate to be able to meet Badar’s religious teacher.

With Pakistan considered President-elect Obama’s number one foreign policy obstacle and the terror attacks in Bombay, this area of the world will have much effect on the rest. These are the people living with what you see in the news if Pakistan is mentioned. There are dangerous areas, such as the tribal regions near the Afghanistan border. Peshawar, the city before the Khyber Pass on route to Afghanistan, is unsafe though I did meet travelers who visited there. One American was recently ambushed and shot in his jeep there.

Even so, these stories are all that is reported from Pakistan. Friends and family who only see Pakistan through this lens deem everywhere to be dangerous. But my travels have shown me, much of the country is a dream to visit. The Northern Areas has been untouched by any unrest. Badar expressed what I think is a correct desire for Rule of Law that is held consistent. An accountability process that is dependable and applies to everyone including authority members. He himself is pushing forward a case against a bribery attempt not because he will get any monetary reward, but to follow through on the process as law dictates.

Upon leaving Badar treated me to a delicious meal of sheep and chicken Biryani. These sheep have huge humps of fat on the bums. I thought the posters I first saw of them were exaggerations as part of the ad, but then I saw some being pulled down the busy street.

We had some chai and I settled down for the morning train to Lahore.

Several hours down the KKH is capital of the Northern Areas, Gilgit. The city has a long history of invading forces including the British who left unmistakable marks on the local culture as well as other parts of British India. One of those is polo.

I arrived in perfect time to catch part of the Gilgit Uprising polo tournament. This smaller tournament features mostly local teams and a few surrounding villages with the police and military teams being the most dominant. The games and considered “freestyle” polo with no referees and loose rules allowing the play to become very aggressive and violent.

Gathered around the long, narrow field were several thousand people, all men, in it’s height. The crowd also spilled over onto the playing field at the goal ends and in the middle of the field where (guarded) doors allow access. Subsequently horses would also charge into the watching crowds sending bearded spectators scurrying for safety.

At other times several steeds would have the equivalent of a horse fender-bender that sent the riders flying off the seat and crashing to the ground. At least twice I witnessed someone knocked out cold and carted off in an ambulance.

The security explained that these games are like proxy wars between the villages and the intensity of the games very high. At one point a grizzled, older player dismounted his horse to stand guard on foot by the goal, mixing it up and throwing elbows at the horses.

Trophy games drew huge crowds, and myself and the other handful of foreigners present were escorted into the VIP section and given chai. We were allowed onto the field in the roped off section to take pictures of dancing celebrations and the handing out of trophies, like we were press. A bit surreal at the time… a feeling that would repeat itself many times in the near future.

The Winners Dancing

Passu and Hunza Valley offer some of the best hiking and trekking in the world with several 6,000 and 7,000 meter peaks in the area. K-2 is not far away near Skardu, though its difficult to see because of clouds and surrounding mountains. I took a day hike near a large glacier and then to a mountain lake, and another short hike to some shaky suspension bridges. Autumn colors are in full swing with brilliant yellows across the valley.

Then several hours down the KKH to Karimabad, one of the most popular villages in the valley and for good reason. First of all, its incredibly cheap. This has to do with the season, yes, but it is still the cheapest country I have traveled. The guest houses cost from about US$.60/50 Rupees to $2/150 Rps. Most serve family style meals for $2/150 Rps that are delicious, refilling dishes (as many as 7 different ones) as much as you want.

First I stayed at Hider Inn, ran by the amazing Mr. Hider. This has probably been the best guest house of my trip. Not the cleanest nor does the electricity always work, but just friendly and great service. Mr. Hider is just one of those individuals you meet that resonates with you.

Mr. Hider

Karimabad and its surrounding villages have long been princely states enjoying a great degree of autonomy (over 900 years). Only 100 years ago these areas still derived much of their wealth by raiding caravans coming through the valley. That thankfully has given away to tourism, and the people of the Hunza and renowned for their warmth. In 1974 was it finally dissolved and absorbed into Pakistan by Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto.

Baltit Fort dates back over 700 years and is a testament to those fiercer times.

Baltit Fort, Karimabad

Like India, large trucks are garishly decorated with bright colors. You can hitch rides with them, but they are quite slow.

The people usually don’t mind to have their pictures taken. Children will trail after you with requests of, “One picture!” And they are so photogenic; beards, Hunza hats, shawls, and smiles. Women predictably tend not to want photos though. Young girls are very skittish. Several times I’ve moved too fast and sent several running down alleys. Kind of funny really.

And the chai! Milk tea is to be enjoyed often and just walking around town will result in many invitations. Thats a great custom!

In all, the Hunza Valley has been my favorite destination thus far. It’s just a relaxing place with stunning natural scenery, very cheap, and extremely friendly people.

On To Pakistan

One of the most anticipated parts of my journey is the Karakoram Highway (KKH), the highest paved international road in the world. It crests the Khunjerab Pass 4,877 km on the border between China and Pakistan and marks the a section of the Silk Road that descends into the riches of India. The KKH claimed at least 892 lives in the making.

Karakoram Highway Map

China and Pakistan maintain sturdy relations. China has provided a lot of funding and workers for the road and its subsequent upkeep. Even today, China has just undertaken a huge upgrade of many parts of the highway to double its width in many parts. Chinese workers and their camps can been seen all along the road working very hard.

From Kashgar I met an Italian traveler, Eddy, heading the same way so we joined forces. The journey is a two day bus ride, but we opted to take a taxi with two others to Karakul Lake for the first night and meet the bus before it leaves in the morning.

About 200 km out of Kashgar, we have fully entered the Parim Mountians when we reached Karakul. The lake is 3,600 meters in altitude and has several mountains in reflection when it’s waters are still including Muztagh Ata (7546m).

Karakul Lake

Unfortunately, I took ill and missed much of the benefit of taking a taxi the first night. I think the altitude put me over the edge and I got a fever and spent most of the time sleeping at the Kirgiz settlement we stayed at, though I did walk by the lake for an hour. It was cloudy anyway. Accommodation consisted of round cement gers and my favorite: yak dung fires.

The next day we hit Stone City and jumped on the bus into Pakistan in Tashkurgan. Immigration was quite easy; Chinese side at Tashkurgan and Pakistani in Sost.

I received my visa on the border at Sost, getting a taste of the kind of bureaucracy awaiting on the Indian Subcontinent. I had to wait while the officer made a handwritten form for me to fill out before issuing a visa. Pakistan here I come.