Tongba is the traditional and indigenous drink of the Limbu people of eastern Nepal. To Limbus, Tongba is analogous to what vodka is to Russians, wine to French, Guinness to Irish and saké to Japanese.

-Wikipedia

Photo Courtesy davidheidebrecht

What to do when in Kathmandu when it rains? Drink tongba, of course! Tongba is the traditional alcoholic drink made from millet. It’s cooked and fermented, then dried and stored for about 6 months.

Tongba is drank out of large wooden containers (also called tongba) with tall straws crimped at one end to filter the hot water thats poured on top. As you drink, more water is added to top it off and keep the taste from becoming too strong.

They are great for cold and rainy days, since the drink really warms you both, both physically and in spirit.

According to legends, chhaang is also popular with the Yeti, who often raid isolated mountain villages to drink it.

Photo Courtesy in.beleza

Dharamsala

Back into colder mountain weather, my anticipated next stop is Dharamsala and the home of the Tibetan Government in Exile. I spent most of my time just above the village proper in McLeod Ganj, also called Upper Dharamsala. Administration buildings, monasteries, the home of the Dalai Lama, Parliament House, and schools have turned with place into “Little Lhasa.”

Since 1960, several thousand Tibetans have relocated themselves to this area transplanting their monasteries and culture into the surrounding Hindu backdrop. McLeod, a couple kilometers walk uphill, is what you consider “touristy” with guest houses, Western cuisine, and souvenir vendors lining the streets.

My schedule has slowed much in the past month and my stay of almost 2 weeks was rather quiet and relaxing. I met a few local Tibetans and got into a habit of playing pool everyday, along with lots of reading and chess games.

Rinchen

The most notable thing I did was attend some philosophy classes at the Library. I would love to have several months to spend studying here with many kinds of Buddhist teachings offered. As it is, I attended a class given by a Tibetan lama and his interpreter, an English woman in her 60s. The translator was excellent, having spent many years here in study.

The focus of this class, which runs about a month in total, is on “The Wheel of Sharp Weapons Effectively Striking the Heart of the Foe” composed in the 10th Century by Dharmarakshita. The text is essentially an investigation in the effect of karma on our lives, the vital role of cause and effect, and that all our suffering is self-imposed. Our own selfish actions come back to us and cause harm, which is why a life of compassion for all living things is cultivated. “The Wheel of Sharp Weapons comes back upon us full circle!” was the repeated phrase in these talks. Very interesting text I will pick up later to study in depth.

I also briefly saw the Dalai Lama as he returned from a speaking tour in Japan and Europe. Unfortunately his motorcade drove through the closely packed streets quite quickly and I bungled the photo operation before I could get a good shot! I had someone else man my video camera so perhaps I got something there (will have to wait and see…). I did see him though and her was in the front seat of vehicle waving both hands at one and grinning.

Waiting for the Dalai Lama

Dharamsala, shortly before my arrival, held a series of important talks concerning their stance on the occupation of Tibet by China. One cannot help but feel a sense of despair hanging over the setting here. Some sport shirts that say “Tibet was Raped by China” in bold lettering and an anti-Chinese feel permeates the literature, DVDs, thoughts, and mentality that are produced here.

You also find many foreigners here volunteering and working for all types of causes. Not negatively implied, this sort of “do-gooder tourism” attracts certain kinds of people. I myself have done this kind of thing extensively (in Jamaica) but it brings up mixed emotions on the effectiveness of this and the fine line between tourist and community member. Some people walk the streets with wine in their belly; others searching for some religious experience and it’s quite impossible to tell the two apart.

One “local-foreigner” approached me one night with bundles of raffle tickets supporting some charity for which she probably spent the day painting benches for. Prizes were big TVs and other electronics. What the hell am I going to do with a flat screen TV here? Why, donate it to charity of course!

Her (to anyone listening): “Where is the ________ Shop?”

Her (to me): “Where is the–, How long have you been here?”

Me: “Ummm, about–”

Her (to anyone listening): sigh, “I guess I’ll just have to go myself”

Me: “……..”

She tromped off with her raffle tickets.

I can’t figure out of this girl (and others) is motivated by her compassion to help people, or her sense of self-worth derived from her compassion to help people.

Since its off-season, I found a room for very cheap (100 Rps = $2) during my stay. I enjoyed the mini-enclave of Tibet in India and hope to return someday to explore further north into Ladakh, which is reachable by plane in the wintery months.

I came right to Dali and stayed two nights in the old town. There is a large lake here with villages and towns scattered everywhere. I rented a bike and cruised the streets of many of them and the farm plots in between. Much cooler and more comfortable weather here. Will be heading north to check the Tibet border areas out.

It seems Tangula has felt the effects as I received this e-mail today:

Dear Mr. Bell,

Thanks for your interest in Tangula Luxury Trains.

We regret to inform you that the launch for Tangula Luxury Trains has been postponed to April 2009. Below is a statement announcing the delay for your attention.

We are sorry to inform you that despite the very encouraging announcement on 25 June 2008 from the Chinese Government that Tibet will be reopening to foreign tourists, Tangula Group has decided to delay the launch of its luxury train business, along both the Northern and Southern routes.

To ensure our guests have the ultimate luxury rail travel experience, we will require several months to finalize all operations on the Tibetan leg of the journey now that we have access to the region. Furthermore, given that the opening of the railway itself beyond Dali to Lijiang on the Southern Route is delayed, we feel it is better to be cautious and allow sufficient time for all operational details to be completed and thoroughly tested.

We apologize for any disappointment this may cause to guests who have already made a booking and to our valued partners, and we will do everything possible to minimize any inconvenience.

The revised launch date will be finalized in the upcoming months and in the meantime our reservations systems will remain open for bookings for journeys from April 2009 onwards.

Once the new launch date has been confirmed, we will be in contact again to inform you. Until then, we thank you for your understanding and continued support. If you have any further questions, then please do not hesitate to contact us.

You contact details have been included in our media database and we will be in touch with you once the launch date for the trains has been finalized. Meanwhile, please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any further enquiries.

Best regards,

May Chen

Tangula Press Office

T: +86 21-52895838*106

Update: The Tangula Train has been delayed.

Traveling to Tibet is about to get a little more comfortable… for the rich that is. Tangula Luxury Trains will be offering luxury train journeys from Beijing to both Tibet’s capital of Lhasa, as well as to the southern destination of Lijiang.

The Qinghai-Tibet Railway route, boasting world’s highest line with a maximum elevation of 5,068 meters, began in 2001 and opened in July 2006 at a cost of $4.5 billion US. An estimated 1.5 million travelers took this route in its first year alone, not to mention their first death (a 75 year old Hong Kong man)! Before the complete rail, travelers to Tibet could only take train as far as Golmud (completed in 1984) and then continue on an unpleasant 48-hour bus journey to Lhasa.

The luxury route is an addition to the regular service started in 2006 and was originally scheduled to open late 2007. The service is now set to open September 2008, with reservations starting soon.

Luxury has its price. The cost to Lhasa over 5 days/4 nights (twice as long as ordinary service) will reportedly cost around $5,000 per passenger. What do get for your money? Each carriage sweet consists of 4 private guestrooms, holding 2 people each, plus a 24-hour on-call butler! The trains come decked out with high-speed Wi-Fi internet access, MP3/video docking stations (complete with a sound system), and 10 meter² rooms with double beds, living room and bathing facilities. Each train can carry 96 passengers at a time.

The journey to Lhasa is one of unprecedented beauty, crossing “grasslands, desert plains, and snow-capped mountains” according to Tanglua’s website.

Tangula Express is a foreign invested venture between Qinghai Tibet Rail Corp (51% stake) and RailPartners (49% stake), a Canadian company. The company plans to take advantage of a market gap in China’s higher-class leisure and hospitality industry.

The name Tangula is derived from a grassland deity named Thang Lha. The deity is said to watch over the Tangula mountain range and the Tangula Pass, the highest point on the line.

Regular Service Information

The luxury service certainly excludes most travelers. If you find yourself on this journey, chances are you will be taking regular service trains.

The ordinary service (from Beijing) takes 47 hours and 28 minutes over 4,064 meters. The luxury service is longer because it stops for photo opportunities and during sleeping hours so passengers don’t miss any scenery.

Costs are roughly $54 US / 389 Yuan (¥) for hard seat, $113 / ¥813 for Hard Sleeper, and $176 / ¥1,262 for soft sleeper.

The Man in Seat 61, the go-to source for trains on the internet, provides timetables.

Travelers need, in addition to a Chinese visa, a Tibet Travel Permit (TTP) for about $97 / ¥700. For arrival by train, many people have reported that this “required” piece of paper is rarely checked and is easily done without. For those arriving by plane, it is always checked. The best place to attempt entering without a permit appears to be via Beijing, though it is a risk to attempt. See Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree Forum for up to date information. A further permit is needed to venture outside of Lhasa.

Images can also be found of the train interiors and the journey’s scenery.

Controversy

China’s iron fisted rule of Tibet began in the 1950’s with Chinese politicians promising economic stability and support, but smiles soon gave way to religious intolerance and violence.

Traditional Tibetan ways of life have changed radically from influence from China and Western culture. Chinese government-imported immigrants of the Han ethnic group, representing 94% of China’s makeup, have been given economic support to resettle in Tibet, officially known as the Tibet Autonomous Region. This attempt to dilute Tibet has largely been successful and made it difficult for Tibetans to compete for work.

The Qinghai-Tibet Railway is seen by advocates for a free Tibet as another way to facilitate military mobilization and Han migration. One such group calls the railway “a tool Beijing will use to overwhelm the Tibetan population, exploit Tibet’s resources, dilute Tibetan culture and devastate the Tibetan environment.”

For an interesting look at Tibet under Chinese rule, watch Dispatches: Undercover in Tibet.

Other Sources

• Train to the Roof of the World (For more information, this article is highly recommended.)
• Tangula Railtours launching luxury train to Tibet
• Beijing train arrives in Lhasa
• China tightens grip with Tibet railway
• By train to Tibet…in the lap of luxury
• Beijing to Lhasa
• China Rail Network
• Tibet (Wikipedia)
• Qinghai-Tibet Railway (Wikipedia)
• Han Chinese (Wikipedia)

Note: The top image is by flickr user Henry Chen.

I wouldn’t say Nepal is the best destination if you are looking for culinary adventures, though it is pretty good. Staples include Indian dishes like curries and dal bhat, Newari (ethnic group) dishes, and momos (like steamed/fried dumplings).

One of my favorite, albeit simple, was advertised as ‘Tibetan bread.’ I didn’t really notice it until we were well into the mountains on my trek. Basically, it’s just a simple flat bread that is fried in a little butter or oil. Depending on the cook it ranges from crispy to doughy and is quite delicious.

I found the following recipe for a Central Tibetan style bread, called Balep Korkun, that looks about right. I’d love to hear if anyone has any other ways of making this.

Tibetan Bread Recipe

This recipe makes 4 pieces of bread (about two people).

Ingrediants

• Two cups of flour (Any kind of flour is okay, like wheat, all-purpose, or self-rising. If you use all-purpose flour, you will need a bit of baking powder.)
• One tablespoon of baking powder
• One cup of water

Making
For the most simple version of this bread, you mix the flour and a little water very well by hand and keep adding water until you can make a smooth ball of dough. If you like, add a bit of butter or applesauce to the flour before you add water for special flavor (I imagine yak butter gives the most authentic flavor). Knead the dough very well until the it is flexible.

When you have finished kneading the dough, separate it into four pieces and roll them into ball shapes. Then leave the dough balls in a container with a lid on for fifteen to twenty minutes.

After that, place one of the ball shapes on a flat surface and roll it out with a rolling pin, making a flat, round shape about 1/2″ to 3/4″ high. Repeat with all your dough.

Cooking
Cook in a large non-stick pan with some no-stick spray. You can use a little oil or butter if you want. First, heat up the frying pan until it gets hot. Turn down the heat to medium, put the bread in the pan and cover it with a lid. Cook 15 minutes on medium heat. You should turn over the bread every four or five minutes, so both sides of the bread get cooked well.

Links

[original recipe]
[flat bread recipe]