Finding Shangri-la

The north of Yunnan is host to an interesting mix of ethnic Chinese groups, most famously the Naxi (who were featured in a textbook I taught from in Japan) and Tibetans.

The city Zhongdian changed its name to Shangri-la after similarities to Jame Hilton’s famous book Lost Horizon, which put the word into popular meaning ‘utopia.’ I really had a good time and stayed longer, mostly due to an awesome couchsurf host. She took me all around old town where she lived and on a nice hike in around a mountain and through some yak fields.

Shangri-la

The city is famous for its 400 year old or so Tibetan monastery with about 600 monks. You see them all over, talking on cell phones and chatting. The monastery was incredible with several very large Buddha statues and all the color one would expect.

Monestary at Shangri-la

Painting of Monestary Grounds

I think I’ve enjoyed this place the most. You know its interesting when walking along, someone says, “This road goes to Lhasa.” Perhaps if I can return after Mongolia, Tibet will be more feasible and affordable by then?

Additionally, I found an awesome restaurant that served proper yak steaks, as opposed to the one I had in Nepal.

Yak Steak!

I had to scurry to Tiger Leaping Gorge to do an overnight hike staying in a hostel half way. Extremely nice views on par with some of Nepal I saw, and the weather mostly cooperated this time stopping as I began and starting right before my night stop. I finished the hike on my birthday which was pleasant.

I kept seeing signs for some mysterious “half-way” location. Every local I passed, when troubled, would point up the trail and say, “half-way.” What or where in God’s name is this? Several guesthouses incorporate the words and innumerable signs letter the trails. I think its some kind of scheme to keep you moving.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Half-way to...?

Then on to Lijiang, regarded as the must see city of Yunnan. It’s Old Town was comparable to Dali and Shangri-la, with cobbled streets and wooden buildings, but I found it to be the most commercialized and extremely confusing in layout (though I had no map other than the increasingly pathetic Lonely Planet maps). A great book about the area and city is Forgotten Kingdom by Peter Goullart, a Russian who spent 8 years there before fleeing the communist takeover.

Lijiang

I had to spend a night in Lijiang, my birthday evening, and tried to find a decent place to have a couple of drinks. I found the nightlife contained to a picturesque strip straddling a small canal. The only venues were these strange Chinese pseudo-discos blaring very loud techno style music with people dressed traditionally singing and dancing. The revelers were in large groups with nary a foreigner to be found (not that that’s important, but still the chances of any English were slim). I didn’t feel up to such nonsense, just wanted a few beers somewhere nice, so went home disappointed. Oh well, better nights ahead I’m sure!